There's a sad truth most retailers won't tell you... usually due to ignorance... but it affects you, the consumer: not every leather garment is low maintenance, and some will require considerable care with even moderate use. While this post addresses luxury and "bridge" price points, much of the following can be applied to jackets under 500.00 or so.
I've had to listen to upset prospective customers too many times on how they spent good money (be it full price or sample sale) on a high-maintenance real leather jacket or coat that they assumed could be worn and tossed about like a durable full-grain leather Schott Perfecto motorcycle jacket (which is practically bullet-proof), and they now either have to pay me well to resolve the accident/ neglect or it’ll sit in the closet...an even more expensive choice if you go by "cost-per-wearing". For those coveting leather jackets from one of the major European or U.S luxury labels… some sage advice: there's more to the meaning of "Luxury" than just a name...
Aside from presumed quality, "Luxury" also means the buyer can afford to have more than one jacket in rotation...which means less wear...and can dispose of it should they not wish to be bothered with resolving problems; which is more common than you think and not very "green". It's not unusual for me to be contacted by a housekeeper or an assistant requesting an estimate to repair what their employer handed off to them...often unaware of the item's value and the cost of the work necessary to resolve it's issue(s).
There are essentially two style categories of luxury leather garments; "workhorses" and "dress/special occasion". You the consumer need to know the difference. A good example of workhorses are those made by Belstaff, famous for their leather moto style jackets with their stand up collar and close fit. ....elegant yet durable for everyday wear. Overland makes their leather coats and jackets here in the U.S. A bomber jacket is usually made with durable cow leather. Will it get daily use? Be aware of your habits… do you stuff your pockets? Tend to throw your stuff over a chair? On the floor? You’ll need a workhorse.
On the "dress" side, a friend of mine sought my opinion on a gorgeous aniline Gucci calfskin jacket he had purchased at a sample sale. Made of what is essentially fine thin glove leather, it is buttery smooth to the touch and drapes beautifully. This is a dress style jacket. I told him the first scratch (and it WILL happen) will kill him, but over time the fine scratches will accumulate evenly and it will take on "character". There is usually an “awkward” stage from brand new to “seasoned character” with finer leathers. Consistent care will ease that transition. NOTE: items made of perforated lamb or calf leather are some of the most fragile. All those tiny holes perfectly lined up easily catch and tear. Additionally, any repair materials containing moisture or simple manipulation during repair can quickly disrupt that perfect pattern… there’s no way to restore it perfectly.
Fine thin leather has many enemies...pet's nails, sharp edges on storm doors/walls, exposed edges on the damaged upholstery of commuter trains ( very common!) and it's own zippers when tossed about. Even your car's shoulders belt is a hazard which can be tamed. Dress jackets also include lightweight versions...usually for women... that can be worn both indoors as part of an outfit or out in warmer weather.
What's the color? There's a reason the majority of leather pieces are black leather or brown, dark gray or navy...they hide stains and soiling. Is it aniline leather? Aniline leather is drum dyed, otherwise untreated and will absorb any liquids/oils it comes in contact with. These should have protection applied after purchase and before using, no matter how tempted you are to wear it immediately. Any shade above a dark tan/medium gray leather requires more thought and effort by it's owner. That means no leaning against walls while waiting for your Uber, table, subway, etc. All that environmental dirt ...and God knows what else... will transfer onto the jacket and work it's way over time into the pores. Regardless of the quality of the leather...just don't!
The lighter the color of the leather, the more attention it requires. White? Understand that unless it's of very good quality, nothing screams "cheap" louder than poor quality white leather. If you own a good white leather garment, you should give it a quick once-over when you remove it after you arrive home. Now's the time to catch a light smudge on the sleeves, shoulders, etcetera with the appropriate cleaner and soft rags you've already got on hand...or put it aside for a weekend chore later…but don’t wear again before you’ve dealt with this. You don’t want to grind that soil in with further wear!
Be aware that like a white cotton shirt or tee… all white/cream/pale leathers will oxidize over time and take on a yellowish cast in varying degrees; but unlike shirts, you can't toss leather into the wash. Dry cleaning white leather usually hastens the yellowing ...to say nothing of removing the hide's oils. Eventually, the piece will require cleaning by a pro and refreshing the color back towards white. Ideally that pro "wet-cleans". There are very few who do this but it's worth seeking them out, even (and likely) if you have to ship it to them at the end of the season. Similar approaches …without laundering...apply to white handbags and the now trending white booties. A little consistent attention on light color leathers (or any color for that matter) goes a long way to saving serious $$$ on your leather wardrobe.
Bottom line: When buying a piece consider both the amount of use it will get on a monthly basis and your willingness to maintain it. Remember all real leather requires some degree of regular maintenance...be it handbags, shoes and other animal hide garments. Choose sturdier darker leathers for your daily "go-to's". And carefully examine all hardware, especially zippers. Sturdy name- brand zippers such as YKK are a good indicator of a quality piece. We’ll cover other leather/suede garments and care/prevention of great leather jackets in the next post.